Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Bologna (the fat one) the City of the Arts, Food and Intellect

We arrived in Bologna at about one thirty, booked into the hotel which was across the via from the train station. We were surprised that we were up graded to a junior suite. The remaining time for the day gave us the opportunity to visit the Mambo museum. The special exhibit was to to see the Giorgio Marandi collection.


We then walked down to the Piazza Maggiore, the centre of the city. The hotel had a very elegant Aperitiva so we had a few drinks, ate and had no need for dinner. 



We spent the next day exploring the historical city if Bologna, the home of the first university and known as the "learned one". It is also referred to as the "fat one" as it is a real food town. It has a history of revolutionaries and thinkers and this was evident today as we listened (but didn't understand) to some speakers at Piazza Miaggore. (a bit like speakers corner in Hyde Park)



We learnt a lot at the Palazzo Pepoli (Museum of the History of Bologna) which was a very contemporary narrative treatment using interactive displays (which is not common in Italian museums) but housed in a medieval building. A very enjoyable few hours.




We leave for Milan tomorrow, then a day trip to Lake Como, Last Supper, Dinner with the father of one of Tim's waiters, maybe some shopping in Milan and then home on Wed.

Sunday, November 3, 2013

Sunday, Daylight-Saving and a Wonderful trip to La Sacrd Di San Michele

Giorgio his wife Claudia, and Eraldo, my second cousins telephoned us and confirmed that they would pick David, Beck, Karen and myself up from our apartment for a trip to La Sacra di San Michele. This magnificant Medeival Abbey, born between 983 and 987 sits one kilometre up, on the top of Mount Pirghiriano. The Abbey was established to meet the demands and culture of pilgrimage.




The Rosminian Fathers look after the Abbey which is one of the largest religious Romanesque crchitectural complexes, the result of construction and enlargements made over a millennium and in 1994 was declared the "monument symbolising Piedmont".

Low clouds were moving in, however the view, cold breeze and the whole feeling of history was exriliating. The trip was a great experience.


We then drove back to Giorgio and Claudia's apartment for a traditional five course Piedmontese lunch. Conversation was often difficult however we all worked together to fill in the meanings. Later on Valentena and her children Marta and Alberto arrived. Mauro her husband is Giorgio and Claudia's son.

On Monday in most cities in Italy the museums, galleries and palaces are closed. This was atime to experience the local culture, have more coffee, do some washing and at 6:oopm have aperitivo at a local bar.


Dinner, Meeting Mauro, and the Journey to Venice

POn the last day in Torino Karen and I decided to experience the Museo Nazionale del Cinema one of the most important cinema museums in the world for the wealth of its collection. It is housed inside the Mole Antonelliana, symbol of the city of Torino.




Part of the building experience was to ride the Panoramic Lift, vertically crossing through the Museum.

The continuous and unexpected visual and acoustic stimuli create a spectacular presentation, revealing the secrets hidden behind the the movie and the steps preceding the screening of the film.

On our last night in Torino Dave and Beck wanted to take us to a Bar in the Piazza Victorio Veneto called La Drogheria. The Jamaican Italian making the mixed drinks entertained the huge crowd. Aperitivo was the approach for a meal. Buy a drink and eat what you like from a table of food from 6:00 to about 8:30pm. It's the sensible and cheap "happy hour".



On our way home, a walk of about two kilometres, we met Mauro, Giorgio's son and Valentine's husband. This was a great surprise, because we would not have seen him this trip. He did give us directions to one of the oldest and famous coffee shops in Torino, the Mulafsano. Used in films and for fashion photo shots. 

Rain in Venice so we are off to Verona

Sadly we had to bid farewell to Beck and David as they left early to catch their train to Florence. We thoroughly enjoyed their company and sharing many adventures with them. Karen and I met Mr Bennito (our bnb host) to hand over the apartment keys.  As the walk to the station to catch our train to romantic Verona involved rain coming down and canal water rising up, we gave ourselves extra time to arrive.




On arriving in Verona, Shakespeare's city of romance, we checked our luggage into our hotel and explored Verona to plan the next two days. We found Verona a very easy city to negotiate with wide well paved walkways, elegant historic buildings and sophicated residents. 

The first Sunday of the month places a E1 charge to any museum or exhibit. This gave us a few days to view the Arena in the Piazza Bra, as well as Cassa Giulietta and the famous balcony.






A two day Verona Card for E15 each gave us much cheaper entry into more than sixteen exhibitions and museums. It's the way to go. On our first full day we decided to take a different route into the main part of the city. The first stop was the Castel Vecchio.




The Castel complex includes the ancient church of San Martino, and a large part of the city wall. The museum was closed because it was Monday morning, however we will visit it tomorrow.

We walked the other side of the river Adige as the light rain started to fall. Back over a walk bridge to the Teatro Romano, an Amphitheatre that is now Verona's Summer Theatre.


We then headed back across the river to have a look at the largest church in Verona, the Sant' Anastasia.



Then on to the Duomo. 



We awoke to a sunny day after a very cold, wet but enjoyable previous day. Returning to Castel  Vecchio which was now open, we were treated to a visual feast of restoration work interspersed with modern pieces. This restoration work is an intelligent refined, masterpiece. There were Perspex relief pieces so visually impaired visitors could experience the exhibition. 





After coffee and our first free aqua, our protracted hunt for the Monet exhibition was finally rewarded. The security at this exhibition was over the top as patrons couldn't even carry their handbags. (None of the paintings would have fitted into Karen's) 






Saturday, November 2, 2013

Biennale Arte 2013 for Two Days

We put two days aside to experience the Biennale Arte 2013. After a slow start to the day we headed off to the Giardini section, which housed most of the national pavilions.This was beautiful garden section of the Biennale.


A lack of toilets, waiting in lines and a total lack of infrastructure became most of the highlight for the experience. Who would put a didactic about an exhibit in a doorway? - the Biennale organisers.

















Venice, the tide's in and so is the Biennale

We arrived in Venice after a four and half train trip from Torino. After meeting Mr Bernitto at the train station he took us on a five (ten) minute walk to the apartment over a canal bridge and next to another canal.


Some food shopping was needed to make lunches, have breakfast and pre dinner nibbles. Ham, cheese and wine are essential. Every morning on our way out to explore Venice we did coffee, sometimes with a conetto.



Our second day in Venice was to explore and orientate our position on the Grand Canal. Karen insisted an experience on a gondola.



Peggy Guggenheim was a priority for the day, and what an experience! If you studied art or made art in the late sixties and seventies you would have love it, as I did.

I don't think Marino Marini got it right!

The image of 'the emperor' was a real surprise. I never thought Kandinsky made abstracted images, only non representational ones during his classic period. At first I thought it was a Paul Klee.